How To Change Fuel Filter On 2003 Dodge Sprinter

Since nosotros might be encountering diesel of dubious quality south of the border (or perhaps meliorate, who knows), it'south a skillful idea to know how to change your fuel filter. We purchase OEM filters at the Mercedes dealerships and carry a few spares, but in case. They're nigh $50 and probably a chip cheaper online. We've heard OEM suppliers are either Mann or Mahle, so probably best to go with those.

The fuel filter sits underneath a heat shield below the air filter housing, right in the center of the engine compartment. It'south not a very user-friendly spot unfortunately. To modify it, let the engine cool off a bit, as there can exist some hot parts effectually (including the filter itself).

We oasis't been able to find much data on it online, and then here's the step-past-step guide:

Parts:

Fuel filter
Hose clamps (optional)

Tools:

Torx $.25
5mm hex scrap
Flathead screwdriver

Procedure:

i) remove the air filter housing. This requires 5 steps: 1) use a flat head screw commuter to pop up the air vent on the 2 plastic connectors. 2) disconnect the black plastic air hose on the driver side (snaps off easily); 3) remove cable on the driver side by sliding upwards; 4) loosen clamp on passenger side and remove air hose; v) remove 2 electrical connectors from passenger side. Of import: do non plough the ignition without reconnecting these 2 electric connectors – you'll go a check engine low-cal. Afterwards these v steps, you can pull out the air filter housing and put it off to the side.

Air filter housing

2) next, y'all remove the heat shield with a Torx chip. In that location are 5 bound-loaded screws that turn 90 degrees to detach. You tin can then pull out the metal piece and put information technology to the side.

Heat shield beneath the air filter

3) the fuel filter is at present accessible. To remove it, one) open the clamp on the back side of the filter cage using a 5mm hex bit; 2) loosen the clamps on the ii high-pressure hoses attached to the filter and pull them off; three) disconnect the electric connector past pulling it out. You lot should now exist able to lift the fuel filter out of its housing (at that place is a hose in the fashion but you should be able to get past it pretty hands).

Fuel filter exposed

four) with the fuel filter out, you now remove the 2 Torx screws on top of the filter, remove the plastic screw on top, and twist the black plastic insert that sits in the filter, once you twist it slightly, you tin can pull information technology out of the fuel filter.

5) there are ii rubber O-rings attached to the plastic insert. Your new filter should come up with new ones. Take the erstwhile O-rings off (a flathead screwdriver might help), make certain the new ones are lubricated (you lot can employ old engine oil), and replace them. Then put the insert into the new filter, reattach the 2 Torx screws, and put the black plastic screw dorsum on (some oil might aid again).
6) put the fuel filter back into its casing in the engine compartment, reattach the loftier-pressure hoses, tighten the clamps, adhere the electric connector, tighten the clench on the housing. Make sure to contrary all steps from step 3.
7) reattach the heat shield plate the aforementioned way you took it out. It slides into two pins in the back, and attaches with 5 Torx screws that only need a 90 degree turn.
viii) put the air filter housing back on (it hooks in on the rear side), and make certain to reattach the 5 things from pace 1.

Done.

I thing we've done to our setup (and this is where it might exist confusing for others): the fuel filter comes with a connection at the top that loops around to a spot on the passenger side, which is just every bit inaccessible as the filter itself. This connexion is supposed to be used to check the liquid within the fuel filter in case of bug. Since information technology's equally inaccessible either manner, you tin can remove that connector. If you lot e'er have an effect with fuel quality, you tin just attach a windshield wiper hose to the plastic connector on top of the fuel filter and drain the content of the fuel filter more easily.
Another thing on the clamps for the high pressure level hoses on the filter: the OEM clamps require a special tool (about people utilize pliers and come across issues tightening them. When nosotros bought our Sprinter, information technology had aftermarket clamps installed that were bitter into the rubber hoses. We replaced them with a 13mm and a 15mm clamp that tighten using either a hex bit or a flathead (these should work). It's something to consider. The clamps don't have to be super tight, the hoses don't come up off that hands.